Kathmandu

The first few hours are a recalibration. The airport is chaotic and the road to Thamel is dusty and congested. But within a day, the city's extraordinary concentration of living heritage — the stupa at Boudhanath, the royal squares, Pashupatinath's burning ghats — makes a powerful case for being exactly where you are. Kathmandu rewards the traveler who spends less time in Thamel's tourist restaurants and more time walking the heritage neighborhoods of the old city and Patan.

October and November are the peak trekking and city-visit months — clear skies, post-monsoon freshness, and mountain views at their sharpest. March and April are the spring alternative with rhododendrons at altitude and good mountain visibility before the pre-monsoon haze builds. December–February is cold (10°C nights) but quiet, cheap, and often exceptionally clear. The monsoon (June–September) makes trekking miserable but the valley turns vivid green and the city has a quiet charm.

Yes, unless you're an Indian citizen (visa-free). Most other nationalities get a tourist visa on arrival at Tribhuvan Airport: 15 days ($30), 30 days ($50), or 90 days ($125). Bring USD cash (exact amount if possible), two passport photos, and your travel details. Apply online at nepalimmigration.gov.np to skip the queue and pay online — you'll receive a code that speeds up airport processing. The visa is single-entry; extensions available at immigration offices in Kathmandu.

Taxi from the airport counter at arrivals — fixed rates of around 700–1,000 NPR to Thamel ($5–7.50). Uber doesn't operate; use the airport counter taxis, which have fixed rates, rather than touts outside. Tootle or Pathao app work once you have a Nepali SIM. The ride is 20–45 minutes depending on traffic on Ring Road.

The Kathmandu Valley contains three historic cities (Kathmandu, Patan, Bhaktapur) and seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites, all within 15 km of each other. A 4-day itinerary covers them seriously: day 1 (Boudhanath + Pashupatinath), day 2 (Patan Durbar Square + Museum), day 3 (Bhaktapur full day), day 4 (Swayambhunath + Kathmandu Durbar Square). This is one of the densest concentrations of living heritage anywhere on earth.

All three are Newar cities with medieval royal squares, but each has its own character. Kathmandu Durbar Square was the most elaborate but suffered most in the 2015 earthquake; restoration is ongoing. Patan (Lalitpur) has the finest museum and the best-surviving royal palace architecture; it's the cultural heart of Newar craftsmanship. Bhaktapur is the most intact medieval city — cars don't enter the historic core, the surrounding lanes are genuinely lived in by craftspeople, and the urban fabric is the most complete.

The April 2015 earthquake (7.8 magnitude) and aftershocks killed nearly 9,000 people and damaged or destroyed approximately 750,000 structures across Nepal. The UNESCO sites in the valley were significantly affected: parts of Kathmandu and Patan Durbar Squares collapsed, and multiple temples were destroyed. Reconstruction is ongoing — UNESCO and international organizations have been supporting restoration using traditional Newari construction techniques. Bhaktapur was the least affected of the three historic cities. The city has fully recovered as a destination.

It's the essential gateway. All major Nepal treks begin here in terms of permit acquisition, gear preparation, and domestic flight connections. The Everest Base Camp trek requires a domestic flight from Kathmandu to Lukla (35 minutes, one of the world's most dramatic small-plane landings). The Annapurna Circuit is reached via Pokhara (1-hour flight or 7-hour bus from Kathmandu). Langtang Valley is the closest major trek — directly accessible by bus from the city.

All trekkers need a TIMS (Trekkers' Information Management System) card from the Nepal Tourism Board office or approved agencies. Trekking in national parks and conservation areas requires additional area permits: the Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP), Langtang National Park permit, or the Sagarmatha (Everest) National Park permit depending on your route. The Nepal Tourism Board office in central Kathmandu or registered trekking agencies handle all permits. Bring passport photos for each permit.

Generally yes. Kathmandu is considered one of South Asia's safer cities for solo women — harassment is less persistent than in India's major cities. The main concerns: taxi safety (use app-based booking or airport counters), and being aware of your surroundings in less-lit lanes at night. The Thamel area is safe and heavily touristed at all hours. Dress conservatively near temples — covering shoulders and knees is expected and reduces unwanted attention.

Newari cuisine is the indigenous food tradition of the Kathmandu Valley's Newar people — distinct from mainstream Nepali cooking. The samay baji ceremonial plate includes chiura (flattened rice), sukuti (dried smoked meat), soybean preparations, egg, and achaar. Juju dhau (king yogurt from Bhaktapur) is the finest yogurt in Nepal — thick, creamy, served in small clay pots. Kwati (nine-bean soup) is eaten at the full moon of Janai Purnima. Newa Lahana in Patan and Honacha in Kirtipur serve authentic Newari meals.

On clear days — which are most common in October, November, and December–February — yes. The Himalayan range is visible from hilltops around the valley, particularly from the rim at Nagarkot or Dhulikhel. From within the city, tall buildings partially obstruct the view, but on winter mornings, the white peaks appear above the southern hills in the early morning light. The mountain flight (Buddha Air, Yeti Airlines) gives the best close-altitude Himalaya view for non-trekkers.

Nepali Rupee (NPR) at roughly 133–135 to the USD. Indian Rupees (at 1.60 NPR per INR) are widely accepted in Kathmandu due to the open border — but change may be given in NPR. ATMs in Thamel and Durbar Marg; daily limits typically apply (35,000–40,000 NPR). Bring USD cash for the visa on arrival (exact amount) and as backup. Currency exchange is easy at the airport and in Thamel — shop rates before committing.

A 1-hour commercial flight (Buddha Air, Yeti Airlines) that operates at around 7,000m altitude along the Himalayan chain east of Kathmandu. All passengers get a window seat (sides alternate views); the crew confirms when you're looking at Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Kanchenjunga. Cost is roughly $200–250 per person. Worth it on a perfectly clear morning (typically November–February); completely pointless in clouds. Check forecasts before booking and always buy a refundable ticket in case of cancellations.

The Royal Kumari is a pre-pubescent girl selected through a rigorous process from the Newar Shakya caste to be the living embodiment of the goddess Taleju. She lives in the Kumari Ghar (Kumari House) at the edge of Kathmandu Durbar Square. She occasionally appears at the window; at festivals (especially Indra Jatra in August-September), she is carried in a chariot through the city. When she reaches puberty, she reverts to mortal status and a new Kumari is selected. Photography is permitted only when she voluntarily appears.

Bhaktapur (13 km east) is the most rewarding full-day trip — the best-preserved medieval Newar city in the valley, with a separate entry fee (1,500 NPR for foreigners) that funds its maintenance. Nagarkot (32 km east) for an overnight with Himalayan sunrise view. Dhulikhel (30 km east) for a similar panorama with a more genuine hill town. Pokhara (7-hour bus or 25-minute flight, dramatically faster) is better as an overnight pivot for Annapurna access.

Yes, particularly in spring (March–May) and winter (December–January). The bowl-shaped valley, cooking and heating fires, vehicle emissions, and seasonal dust from India combine to produce PM2.5 levels that sometimes exceed 200 μg/m³. The situation has improved with more electric vehicles but remains significant. Bring an N95 mask if you're sensitive to air quality or visiting in spring/winter. The best air quality is October–November after the monsoon clears the valley.