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Banff and Bow Valley
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Banff

Canada · mountain lakes · hiking · wildlife · skiing
When to go
June – October · December – March (skiing)
How long
3 – 5 nights
Budget / day
$150–$700
From
$980
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Banff is the mountain lake destination that photographs can't quite do justice to — the turquoise of Lake Louise and Moraine Lake needs to be seen in person to understand what everyone's been trying to describe.

The photographs of Moraine Lake have become so ubiquitous — on Canada's old $20 bill, in every travel magazine published in the last 30 years — that there's a reasonable fear the reality won't measure up. It does. The rock flour suspended in glacial melt gives the water a blue-green color that shifts through the day as cloud shadows move across the surrounding peaks, and the Valley of the Ten Peaks backdrop is the kind of landscape that makes people stop talking mid-sentence. Lake Louise, 15 minutes further up the road, is less dramatic in its geometry but wider and more serene.

Banff town is small — roughly 8,000 permanent residents in a national park boundary that prevents urban sprawl — and feels it. Banff Avenue is the commercial strip, lined with outfitters, restaurants, and hotels serving the park's four to six million annual visitors. The town has improved significantly as a dining destination in the last decade; you no longer have to eat in hotel restaurants or resign yourself to tourist-strip pasta. Bison Restaurant, Park Distillery, and Three Bears Brewery represent a food culture that has caught up with the scenery.

The Bow Valley Parkway — the original highway between Banff and Lake Louise, largely superseded by the Trans-Canada — runs parallel to the faster road and is where most of the wildlife viewing happens. Dawn and dusk drives along Highway 1A reward patient travelers with elk herds, black bears, and the occasional grizzly descending from the treeline. The Icefields Parkway extending north from Lake Louise to Jasper is the greatest mountain highway in North America — 230 kilometers past glaciers, icefield viewpoints, and turquoise lakes with almost no commercial development.

Johnston Canyon, 25 minutes northwest of Banff town on the Bow Valley Parkway, is the park's most accessible canyon walk — a catwalk built into the canyon walls leads past Lower and Upper Falls, and beyond that to the Inkpots, a series of vivid blue-green springs. On a warm morning before the tour buses arrive, it is one of the most satisfying short hikes in the Rockies.

The practical bits.

Best time
June – October (summer/fall) · December – March (skiing)
Summer (June–August) brings all trails open, Moraine Lake accessible by shuttle (reservation required), and the longest days. September and October are the sweet spots — crowds thin dramatically, larch trees turn gold in Larch Valley (late September peak), and bears are active at low elevations. Winter is ski season: Lake Louise and Sunshine Village rank among the finest ski resorts in North America for terrain and powder.
How long
3 nights recommended
Two nights covers Banff town and Lake Louise. Three adds Johnston Canyon, Bow Valley Parkway wildlife drives, and a gondola. Four to six permits a Moraine Lake sunrise, the Icefields Parkway, and serious hiking.
Budget
$320 / day typical
Banff is expensive by Canadian standards. Budget hotels and hostels in Banff town start at $120–160 CAD. Mid-range runs $250–380 CAD. The Fairmont Banff Springs starts at $400 CAD and goes significantly higher. A Parks Canada Discovery Pass ($75 CAD individual, $150 family) covers national park entry for a year — worthwhile if spending 4+ days.
Getting around
Rental car + Banff town shuttle + Roam transit
A rental car from Calgary Airport is the most flexible approach. In summer, Moraine Lake and Lake Louise are served by Parks Canada Moraine Lake Shuttle reservations — private vehicles are prohibited at Moraine Lake before 6 PM in summer without a reservation. The Roam transit bus (Parks Canada's regional transit) connects Banff town to Lake Louise. The Banff townsite is walkable.
Currency
Canadian Dollar (CAD). National park entry is $11.25 CAD/person or $23 CAD/vehicle (or Discovery Pass).
Cards accepted everywhere. Smaller trailhead vendors may be cash only. Carry some CAD.
Language
English. Banff has significant year-round international staff from Australia, UK, Japan, and Europe.
Visa
US citizens do not require a visa for Canada. Other nationalities check eTA requirements.
Safety
Wildlife safety is the primary concern. Bears (both grizzly and black) are present year-round; carry bear spray on all trails and travel in groups of four or more in areas with bear advisories. Elk are in the town year-round and are aggressive during rut season (September–October) — keep 30 meters minimum distance. Mountain weather changes rapidly; check forecasts before above-treeline hikes.
Plug
Type A/B · 120V — same as US plugs.
Timezone
MST · UTC-7 (MDT UTC-6 mid-March – early November)

A few specific picks.

Hand-picked, not algorithmic. Each of these has earned its space.

activity
Moraine Lake
Lake Louise (14 km from Lake Louise village)

The Valley of the Ten Peaks and the rock-flour turquoise water on the Rockpile trail overlook is the most photographed scene in the Canadian Rockies. Access by reservation-only shuttle from late May through mid-October; the Moraine Lake Shuttle books out fast — reserve the moment dates open in April.

activity
Lake Louise
Lake Louise village

The larger glacial lake overlooked by the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise. Canoe rentals on the lake, the Plain of Six Glaciers trail above it, and the Big Beehive hike with a teahouse at the top. Crowded midday in summer; arrive before 8 AM or after 5 PM.

activity
Johnston Canyon
Bow Valley Parkway (24 km from Banff)

The park's most accessible canyon hike — catwalk bridges built into the cliff walls lead to the Lower Falls (1.1 km) and Upper Falls (2.7 km). Beyond the falls, the Inkpots trail (5.8 km total) reaches vivid blue-green mineral springs. Go early — the parking lot fills by 8 AM in summer.

activity
Banff Gondola and Sulphur Mountain
Banff town

The gondola climbs 698 meters to the Sulphur Mountain ridge at 2,281 meters — views across the Bow Valley, the town below, and the mountain ranges in every direction. The ridge boardwalk to Sanson Peak adds 30 minutes and the best angle. Crowd-heavy midday; book a sunrise gondola if available.

stay
Fairmont Banff Springs
Banff town

The 'Castle in the Rockies' — opened in 1888 as a Canadian Pacific Railway hotel, still the dominant landmark above the Bow River. Staying here is a full Canadian mountain hotel experience; even if you're not a guest, the lobby is open and the view from the terrace is worth the walk.

activity
Larch Valley Trail (September–October)
Moraine Lake area

The most celebrated fall hike in the Canadian Rockies — a 5.8 km trail above Moraine Lake where alpine larch trees turn brilliant gold in late September. The Sentinel Pass extension (3 km more) reaches a high col with panoramic views. This is the peak experience of fall in the Rockies; combine with a Moraine Lake shuttle reservation.

activity
Icefields Parkway (Highway 93)
Lake Louise to Jasper

230 kilometers of mountain highway through some of the most dramatic scenery on the continent — the Columbia Icefield, Athabasca Glacier, Peyto Lake overlook, and Bow Lake. Drive it north from Lake Louise toward Jasper at a minimum; turn around at the Columbia Icefield (2.5 hours from Lake Louise) for a day trip.

activity
Bow Valley Parkway Wildlife Drive
Banff to Lake Louise (Hwy 1A)

The old highway between Banff and Lake Louise runs parallel to the Trans-Canada and is designated slow speed for wildlife viewing. Dawn and dusk drives reliably produce elk herds, and grizzly sightings in spring and fall are common. The Moose Meadows and Castle Mountain viewpoints are the best stopping points.

activity
Lake Louise Ski Resort
Lake Louise (winter)

One of the largest ski areas in North America — 4,200 acres, 145 runs, 1,600m vertical, and views down to the lake that make it unlike any other ski resort on the continent. Often has snow from November through May. Combined with Sunshine Village and Mt. Norquay, the Banff Lake Louise area has ski terrain for weeks.

activity
Banff Upper Hot Springs
Banff town (Sulphur Mountain base)

A historic outdoor thermal pool at 1,585 meters — the hot springs that prompted the creation of Banff National Park in 1885 when the railway workers who discovered them argued over who owned the mineral rights. A soak here after a hiking day, with the Rockies above, is thoroughly Banff.

Pick a neighborhood, not a hotel.

Banff is a city of neighborhoods. The one you stay in shapes the trip more than the property does.

01
Banff Townsite
Park-enclosed mountain town, walkable main avenue, full dining and hotel range
Best for All visitors; the practical base for the entire area
02
Lake Louise Village
Smaller settlement 55 km from Banff, Fairmont Chateau, Lake Louise itself
Best for Those wanting to be closest to the lake; ski access to Lake Louise Resort
03
Canmore
Gateway town just outside the park boundary — no park fee, more housing, growing food scene
Best for Budget travelers, local café culture, access to Rundle Provincial Park
04
Johnston Canyon / Bow Valley Parkway
Roadside canyon, campgrounds, wildlife viewing corridor
Best for Road-trippers, wildlife watchers, campers
05
Tunnel Mountain / Spray River
Residential/campground area east of Banff townsite, hiking trails
Best for Campers, budget RV visitors, Fairmont Banff Springs access

Different trips for different travelers.

Same city, very different stays. Pick the lens that matches your trip.

Banff for first-time visitors

Reserve Moraine Lake shuttle as the first thing you do. Lake Louise sunrise. Johnston Canyon. Banff Gondola. Three to four nights minimum to do this without feeling rushed. Stay in Banff town for proximity to everything.

Banff for hikers

Larch Valley (September) is the peak experience. Plain of Six Glaciers, Sentinel Pass, and the Highline Trail (from the Lake Louise gondola) are the multi-hour routes. Pack bear spray. Check Parks Canada trail conditions before every departure. July and August have the most open trail mileage; September has the best hiking weather and color.

Banff for skiers

The Tri-Area Ski Pass covers Lake Louise, Sunshine Village, and Mt. Norquay — three distinct mountains with different terrain profiles. Lake Louise has the most runs and the famous lake-view shots. Sunshine Village has the highest base elevation and holds powder longest. Mt. Norquay is the locals' hill, closest to Banff town.

Banff for photographers

Moraine Lake sunrise (book the earliest shuttle and be ready on the Rockpile). Lake Louise at dusk when the Fairmont lights. Johnston Canyon's Upper Falls in winter with ice formations. Larch Valley in late September. The Bow Valley Parkway at dawn for elk in morning mist. Bring a polarizing filter — the turquoise color of the lakes photographs unusually in direct light.

Banff for couples

The Fairmont Banff Springs or Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise for the full romantic mountain hotel experience. A candlelit dinner at Bison or the Maple Leaf. A sunrise gondola or dawn at Moraine Lake. A soak at the hot springs after a day hike. Banff is one of the most reliably romantic destinations in Canada.

Banff for families

Johnston Canyon (catwalk bridges, all ages). Lake Minnewanka boat cruise. Moraine Lake canoe rentals. Wildlife spotting on the Bow Valley Parkway at dawn. The hot springs are excellent for tired children after hiking days. The Banff Gondola has a top-of-mountain interpretive boardwalk suited for all ages.

When to go to Banff.

A quick year at a glance. Great, good, or skip — see what each month is doing before you book.

Jan ★★
-15–-4°C / 5–25°F
Cold, snow, ski season peak

Excellent skiing at Lake Louise and Sunshine. Frozen Johnston Canyon ice walk. Quiet town. Very cold overnight.

Feb ★★
-13–-2°C / 9–28°F
Cold, peak ski conditions

Often the best powder month. Long ski days. Quieter than Christmas-New Year week.

Mar ★★★
-8–4°C / 18–39°F
Late ski season, warming

Spring skiing conditions. Longer days. Some trails starting to soften. Still excellent on snow.

Apr
-2–11°C / 28–52°F
Snow melting, shoulder season

Ski season winding down. Moraine Lake and higher trails still closed. Lower prices and thin crowds.

May ★★
3–17°C / 37–63°F
Warming, variable, snowpack melting

Moraine Lake shuttle opens mid-month. Lower trails opening. Wildflowers on valley floors. Shoulder pricing.

Jun ★★★
7–22°C / 45–72°F
Warm, summer crowds building

Most trails open. Banff filling up. Wildlife active at low elevations. Good early-season hiking before peak heat.

Jul ★★★
9–26°C / 48–79°F
Warmest month, busy

Peak season. All attractions running. Shuttle reservations essential. Calgary Stampede draws visitors to the region.

Aug ★★★
9–25°C / 48–77°F
Warm, busy, afternoon thunderstorms

Busiest accommodation month. Full trail network open including high alpine. Wildflowers at their peak.

Sep ★★★
3–18°C / 37–64°F
Cooling, fall color

The best month for most visitors — crowds drop dramatically after Labor Day, Larch Valley gold peaks late September, wildlife at low elevations.

Oct ★★
-3–10°C / 27–50°F
Cold, first snow, trails closing

Larch season ends. Moraine Lake shuttle closes. First dustings of snow. Very quiet. Strong atmosphere.

Nov
-9–1°C / 16–34°F
Cold, early ski season

Ski season begins at Lake Louise (typically mid-November). Town very quiet. Hotel deals available.

Dec ★★★
-14–-4°C / 7–25°F
Cold, full ski season, festive

Christmas week is the busiest ski period. Festive Banff atmosphere. Book well ahead for Christmas and New Year's.

Day trips from Banff.

When you want a change of pace. Each one's a half-day or full-day out, easy from Banff.

Yoho National Park

30 min west of Lake Louise
Best for Emerald Lake, Takakkaw Falls, quieter than Banff

Cross into BC at the Great Divide on the Trans-Canada. Turn north at Field for Takakkaw Falls; follow the Yoho Valley road to Emerald Lake. The combination of the two makes a full Yoho day. No additional park entry required with a Discovery Pass.

Kootenay National Park

45 min south of Banff (Radium Hot Springs)
Best for Natural hot springs, Paint Pots ochre springs, quieter park experience

Highway 93S from Banff town through Vermilion Pass. Marble Canyon and the Paint Pots (naturally occurring ochre mineral springs) are the trail highlights. Radium Hot Springs at the south end is a larger thermal pool than Banff's. No additional entry with Discovery Pass.

Jasper and Maligne Lake

3h 45m north via Icefields Parkway
Best for Icefields Parkway drive, Athabasca Falls, Maligne Canyon, Spirit Island

This is a major commitment from Banff — better as part of a multi-night Jasper stay. The Icefields Parkway between the two parks is the reason to make the drive. Athabasca Glacier walk-on experience at the Columbia Icefield Glacier Discovery Centre.

Canmore

20 min east
Best for Independent restaurants, café culture, Ha Ling Peak hike

The gateway town outside the park boundary. Main Street has good independent breakfast and coffee spots (Communitea, Stewart Creek Golf and Eatery). Ha Ling Peak trailhead is in town — a 1,500-foot climb with dramatic Bow Valley views. Better for an evening dinner escape from Banff pricing.

Lake Minnewanka

10 min from Banff
Best for Scenic drive, boat cruise, Devil's Gap hiking

A large reservoir lake on the edge of Banff townsite — boat cruises run May–September. The Lake Minnewanka Loop drive (24 km) passes both Minnewanka and Two Jack Lake. Two Jack Lakeside campground is one of the park's most scenic camping spots.

Calgary

90 min east
Best for Airport connections, Glenbow Museum, Stampede (July)

The urban counterpart to Banff's mountain experience. The drive back through the Foothills with the Rockies shrinking in the rearview mirror is a classic Alberta end-of-trip moment. Drumheller is a further 90 minutes northeast from Calgary.

Banff vs elsewhere.

Quick honest reads on the cities people compare Banff to.

Banff vs Jasper

Banff is more developed, more visited, and closer to Calgary. Jasper is larger as a park, quieter, farther from major airports, and has a different mountain character — wider valleys, more accessible wildlife viewing, and Maligne Lake. The Icefields Parkway connects them; most serious Rockies travelers do both.

Pick Banff if: You're flying into Calgary, have limited time, and want the most famous mountain lake scenery.

Banff vs Whistler

Whistler is a ski resort village with summer hiking — more polished village amenity, BC Coastal Mountain scenery, and year-round gondola culture. Banff is in the Continental Divide Rockies with more dramatic lake scenery but a smaller town with fewer upscale amenities. Both are excellent; they serve different mountain travel appetites.

Pick Banff if: You want the classic Canadian Rockies mountain lake experience and proximity to Calgary airport.

Banff vs Queenstown

Queenstown (New Zealand) is the adventure-sports mountain city in a fjord-lake setting. Banff is the mountain lake scenic destination in a national park. Both have skiing, hiking, and dramatic water-and-peak scenery. Queenstown skews more adrenaline; Banff skews more nature and photography.

Pick Banff if: You want mountain lake scenery without a long-haul flight from North America.

Banff vs Zermatt

Zermatt centers on the Matterhorn — a single iconic peak with car-free village character and exceptional skiing. Banff is about the range rather than a single peak, is car-accessible, and offers a more wilderness-immersive experience. Zermatt is European alpine precision; Banff is raw Canadian scale.

Pick Banff if: You want the North American wilderness scale and the turquoise lake experience unavailable in the Alps.

Itineraries you can start from.

Real plans built by Roamee. Use one as your starting point and change anything.

Things people ask about Banff.

When is the best time to visit Banff?

Summer (June–August) for hiking and the full trail network. Late September for Larch Valley gold and the fewest crowds. December–March for skiing at Lake Louise, Sunshine Village, and Mt. Norquay. May and November are shoulder months with unpredictable conditions and some attractions closed. Moraine Lake is accessible mid-May to mid-October only, and requires shuttle reservations in summer.

How do I get to Moraine Lake and do I need a reservation?

In summer (mid-May to mid-October), private vehicles are not permitted at Moraine Lake before 6 PM without a Parks Canada shuttle reservation. The Moraine Lake Shuttle departs from the Lake Louise Ski Resort overflow parking area and must be reserved at reservation.pc.gc.ca — these open in April and sell out fast. Arrive at the shuttle parking before 7 AM if you want the sunrise light without a shuttle reservation (before restrictions begin) or book as early as possible.

Is a Parks Canada Discovery Pass worth it?

If you're spending 4+ days in Canadian national parks, yes. The Discovery Pass costs $75.25 CAD per adult or $152.25 for a group/family and covers unlimited entry to over 80 Parks Canada sites for a year. The daily vehicle rate is $23 CAD — so the pass pays off in about 7 park days. It covers Banff, Jasper, Yoho, Kootenay, and all other national parks in Canada.

What is the difference between Lake Louise and Moraine Lake?

Lake Louise is larger, more accessible, and ringed by hiking trails — the Fairmont Chateau sits directly on its shore. Moraine Lake is smaller, in a more dramatic valley (the Valley of the Ten Peaks), and its rock flour creates an even more intense blue-green color. Both are glacial lakes; Moraine Lake photographs more dramatically. Lake Louise is easier to visit without reservations in off-peak season.

What wildlife will I see in Banff?

Elk are in Banff townsite year-round and become aggressive during the fall rut (September–October) — maintain 30 meters distance and do not approach them. Black bears and grizzly bears are active spring through fall on trails and along the Bow Valley Parkway. Bighorn sheep are on the lower slopes and road shoulders near Banff. Mountain goats are visible from the Sulphur Mountain gondola area. Wolves, wolverines, and cougars exist in the park but rarely show themselves to visitors.

Do I need to carry bear spray in Banff?

Yes, on any backcountry or forest trail. Bear spray is proven more effective than firearms at close range and is the recommended deterrent for bear encounters. Carry it in a quick-access belt holster — not in your pack. Bear activity varies seasonally; Parks Canada posts daily advisories at trailheads and on the Banff website. Spray can be rented at Banff sporting goods shops if you don't want to purchase and cannot take it on an aircraft.

What is the Icefields Parkway?

Highway 93 between Lake Louise and Jasper — 230 kilometers often described as the world's most scenic mountain drive. The Columbia Icefield (the largest in the Canadian Rockies) and the Athabasca Glacier are the main stops, along with Peyto Lake overlook, Bow Lake, Sunwapta Falls, and Athabasca Falls. Driving the full route takes 3.5–4 hours without stops; allow 7–8 hours with proper stops. In winter, check road conditions before departure.

What is Larch Valley and when should I go?

Larch Valley is a subalpine valley above Moraine Lake, famous for its alpine larch trees that turn brilliant gold in late September — one of the most spectacular fall color experiences in North America. The trailhead is at Moraine Lake (shuttle required). The peak gold window is typically September 20–30 and varies by a week depending on the year. Trails can be snowy by early October. Arrive via the earliest shuttle departure for golden morning light.

What is Canmore and should I stay there instead of Banff?

Canmore is a town of 16,000 just outside the national park boundary — 20 minutes east of Banff. No national park entry fee is required for Canmore itself. It has a strong independent café and restaurant scene, is generally less expensive than Banff, and has excellent hiking access into Rundle Provincial Park and the Bow Valley corridor. Many visitors use Canmore as a base; the tradeoff is the 20-minute drive into the park for every excursion.

Is Banff worth it in winter?

Yes, especially if you ski. Lake Louise Ski Resort and Sunshine Village are two of the finest ski mountains in North America — big terrain, consistent snow, and views of the frozen lake far below that no other ski resort replicates. Non-skiing winter visits are also excellent: ice walks on Johnston Canyon's frozen waterfalls, snowshoeing around Lake Louise, the hot springs, and a dramatically quieter Banff townsite than in summer.

How far is Banff from Calgary?

128 kilometers west on the Trans-Canada — roughly 90 minutes in normal traffic. The Brewster Express shuttle runs from Calgary Airport to Banff town (2 hours, approximately $70 CAD one way). Summer weekends see congestion; leave Calgary before 8 AM. National park entry is charged at the gate — buy the Discovery Pass online in advance.

What hiking trails are best for non-expert hikers?

Johnston Canyon to the Lower and Upper Falls (2.7 km, easy). Bow Falls Loop in Banff town (3.8 km, flat). Lake Louise Lakeshore Trail (3.4 km, flat). The Rockpile at Moraine Lake (0.8 km, short steep climb to the famous viewpoint). Peyto Lake overlook from the Icefields Parkway (1.6 km, easy). For a longer moderate hike, the Sulphur Mountain trail (11 km to the summit, 644m elevation) is the fitness-appropriate alternative to the gondola.

Where should I eat in Banff?

The Park Distillery on Banff Avenue uses local spirits and does a solid elevated Canadian menu. Bison Restaurant is the best-rounded mid-range option with good Alberta beef and game. Three Bears Brewery is the local craft beer anchor. The Maple Leaf in a heritage building is the classic spot for Alberta bison and elk. For a splurge, the Fairmont Banff Springs' 1888 Chop House is the steak room with the full mountain hotel experience.

What is Yoho National Park and is it worth a day trip from Banff?

Yoho is adjacent to Banff on the BC side of the Great Divide — 30 minutes west of Lake Louise. It has two exceptional highlights: Emerald Lake (another glacial-flour turquoise lake) and Takakkaw Falls (the second-highest waterfall in Canada at 254 meters). The Burgess Shale fossil site in Yoho is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A day trip combining Emerald Lake and Takakkaw Falls is one of the most rewarding additions to a Banff-based trip.

Is Banff expensive and how can I save money?

Yes — Banff is among the most expensive destinations in Canada. Budget options: Banff International Hostel (HI member discount), cooking your own meals (the Safeway in town and IGA in Canmore have groceries), hiking instead of gondola ($34 CAD), and staying in Canmore for lower hotel rates. The Bow River Loop trail, Bow Falls, and Bankhead historical site are all free. The hot springs are $16.50 CAD adult — good value for a post-hike soak.

What should I know about the Rocky Mountaineer train?

The Rocky Mountaineer is a luxury tourist train that runs seasonal (April–October) routes between Vancouver and Banff/Jasper — glass-dome cars, full meals served on board, and commentary on the passing scenery. The Vancouver to Banff route takes two days with an overnight in Kamloops. It's a premium product ($1,500–$3,000+ CAD per person one way) aimed at travelers who want to see the mountain scenery without driving. The route is beautiful and the service is polished.

What wildlife is most commonly seen in Banff National Park?

Elk are the most reliably visible wildlife and are in Banff townsite year-round — particularly along the Bow River and Vermilion Lakes Road at dawn and dusk. Bighorn sheep are on the rocky slopes near town and along the Trans-Canada highway. Grizzly and black bears are on lower trails in spring, summer, and fall. Wolves are present in the park but rarely seen. Moose prefer marshy areas like Vermilion Lakes. Canada geese and osprey are common along the Bow River. For the best wildlife viewing, the Bow Valley Parkway and Vermilion Lakes Drive in the first two hours after sunrise are consistently productive.

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