St. Moritz

St. Moritz is the birthplace of Alpine winter tourism — it hosted the Winter Olympics twice (1928 and 1948) and is home to the Cresta Run skeleton track and the Bob Run. In winter, the frozen lake hosts polo and horse racing. The Glacier Express terminates here. It remains one of the world's most prestigious winter resorts, attracting a genuinely international crowd.

Yes — summer is St. Moritz at its most scenic and less crowded. The Diavolezza cable car, Morteratsch Glacier, 400 km of mountain bike trails, sailing on the Engadine lakes, and the Engadine classic hiking routes are all excellent from late June to mid-September. Summer is also meaningfully cheaper than peak winter weeks.

Very expensive — one of the most expensive ski resorts in Europe. Expect CHF 300–500 per person per day mid-range, including accommodation, meals, and lift pass. Budget stays in Pontresina or Silvaplana can cut accommodation costs by 40%. The resort's reputation for luxury is not exaggerated, but independent travelers can visit without staying at Badrutt's Palace.

The Glacier Express is an 8-hour panoramic train from Zermatt to St. Moritz (or reverse), crossing 291 bridges, 91 tunnels, and the 2,033m Oberalp Pass. It's one of the great rail journeys in the world, and St. Moritz makes the natural western terminus. Reservations are required (CHF 13–33 supplement). Run year-round, twice daily in peak season.

The Cresta Run is a natural-ice skeleton toboggan track cut in the hillside above St. Moritz each winter since 1884. It is managed by the St. Moritz Tobogganing Club; men above 18 can join as club members and learn to ride. It is not open to casual spectators at close quarters, though the track's upper reaches are visible from the road. A uniquely eccentric piece of winter sports history.

January through March for optimal snow and sunshine. St. Moritz's high altitude and southern orientation mean good snow reliability; the Engadine is one of the sunniest ski valleys in Europe. February brings White Turf horse racing on the frozen lake and the Cresta Run season's peak. Early January is quieter and slightly cheaper after New Year's crowd departures.

Diavolezza is a separate ski and viewpoint area above Bernina Pass, reached by cable car from Diavolezza station on the Bernina railway line. It offers glacier skiing and one of the best mountain panoramas in the Alps — the Bernina massif, Piz Palü, and the Morteratsch Glacier below. In summer it is a cable car excursion; in winter it is the best advanced terrain in the St. Moritz region.

Yes, particularly in winter for the frozen-lake atmosphere (polo, horse racing, walks on the ice) and the Segantini Museum and Engadine Museum. Cable car excursions to Diavolezza and Corvatsch work without skiing. Summer is better still for non-winter sports visitors — hiking, biking, and the Morteratsch Glacier walk require no specialist skills.

St. Moritz Dorf sits on the hillside with the grand hotels (Badrutt's Palace, Kulm Hotel), the ski lifts directly above town, and most of the luxury shopping. St. Moritz Bad is lower, on the lake shore, with the thermal baths (Heilbad), the train station, and a quieter residential feel. Bad is slightly cheaper for accommodation; Dorf is where the resort action concentrates.

Pontresina (10 min by bus) is the hiking and mountaineering centre with good mid-range hotels and traditional Engadine architecture. Silvaplana is a windsurfing and kite-surfing destination with lake access. Sils Maria, where Nietzsche spent 17 summers, is the quietest and most literary of the villages. All are connected by post bus or train.

The Morteratsch Glacier is one of the most accessible glaciers in the Alps — a 10-minute walk from Morteratsch station on the Bernina Railway (which also connects to the Bernina Express to Italy). The glacier face is visible, and marker posts show its retreat since 1900. A clear and sobering illustration of glacial change, open year-round without a fee.

The Bernina Express is a UNESCO-listed rail journey from St. Moritz over the Bernina Pass to Tirano, Italy — 4 hours through some of the highest and most dramatic railway scenery in the world. It can be done as a day trip from St. Moritz or as a one-way leg south into Italy. A complementary pairing to the Glacier Express from the west.

In winter: ski morning on Corviglia, fondue lunch at a slope restaurant, afternoon walk on the frozen lake if conditions allow, evening in the Kulm or Badrutt's bar. In summer: morning cable car to Diavolezza or Corvatsch, afternoon hike descent or glacier walk, evening lakeside in St. Moritz Bad. Either day is an authentic Engadine experience.

Direct InterCity train from Zurich to Chur (1h 20m), then the Rhaetian Railway Glacier Express or regular service to St. Moritz (2h). Total journey approximately 3h 30m. The Glacier Express from Zurich is not direct — it originates in Zermatt. A regular IC and then Rhaetian Railway connection is faster and cheaper.

The Engadine Ski Marathon is a 42 km cross-country ski race held annually in March on the frozen lakes and trails of the Upper Engadine. With over 10,000 participants, it is one of the world's great ski marathons, part of the Worldloppet circuit. Spectators line the course through Silvaplana and Sils. Even non-participants find the event atmosphere extraordinary.

Yes, with caveats. The ski schools are excellent and the Corviglia children's ski area is well-developed. In summer the Engadine lakes, hiking, and alpine garden visits suit all ages. The resort's luxury character means it is not the most budget-friendly family destination, but children are welcomed warmly in the mountain village culture.

Very easily — the Bernina Express links St. Moritz to Tirano in Italy, from where a short train reaches Lugano (total 3.5 hours). Or take the regular Bernina Railway to Lugano without the scenic supplement. This St. Moritz–Lugano corridor is one of the great short cross-Alps journeys, moving from mountain snow to palm-tree lake in an afternoon.

White Turf is a horse racing and skijoring event held on the frozen Lake St. Moritz in February — usually three consecutive Sundays. Skijoring, where a jockey on skis is pulled across the ice by a galloping horse, is specific to St. Moritz and genuinely spectacular. The event dates to 1907 and draws several thousand spectators; tickets are free along the lakeside.