Buenos Aires

October through December (spring, jacaranda bloom) and March through May (fall). Both have warm-not-hot days, cool nights, clear skies. Avoid January–February (hot, locals on holiday, restaurants close) and winter weeks of July–August (gray and cold).

At least 4 nights, ideally 6. You need a Palermo day, a Recoleta + cemetery day, a San Telmo Sunday, an evening for tango, and ideally one slow day. Beyond 7, side-trip to Mendoza or Iguazú.

Palermo and Recoleta are safe for tourists day and night. Avoid La Boca after dark (even with crowds). Petty theft in Microcentro and on crowded buses. Keep phones secured, don't flash valuables. Standard South American capital caution.

Argentina runs parallel exchange rates — official (bank) and blue (street). The blue rate is 30–50% better. Bring crisp clean US$100 bills to exchange. Western Union transfers are the easiest legal route at near-blue rates. Cards charge the official rate, so paying cash with blue-rate pesos is much cheaper.

Excellent value with blue-dollar rates. Mid-range steak dinners $25–40, hotels $80–180/night, Ubers $3–7. Without blue rates (i.e., card payments), it's roughly Western European prices. Bring cash USD.

Palermo Soho or Palermo Hollywood for first-timers — walkable to dinners, design hotels, café mornings. Recoleta for grander old-world stays near the cemetery and museums. Puerto Madero for modern hotels but less character. Skip Microcentro.

Tienda León airport bus to Palermo/downtown — $15, 50 min. Pre-booked transfer $30–45. Uber works but is sometimes blocked at airport; arrange ahead. Yellow taxis are fine but agree on price first ($40–50). Avoid grabbing unofficial cars.

Bife de chorizo at Don Julio or La Cabrera (parrillas). Empanadas (Salta-style at El Sanjuanino). Milanesa napolitana. Provoleta (grilled provolone). Choripán from a street cart. Dulce de leche on everything. Mate with locals if you're invited.

Tourist tango shows are theatrical and decent. The real thing is a milonga — a social tango dance, with regulars and music played by a DJ. Salon Canning, La Catedral, and Confitería Ideal run them most nights. Take a beginner lesson first; the dance is welcoming.

Useful but not strictly required in Palermo and Recoleta. Argentine Spanish is distinctive — they pronounce 'll' as 'sh' and use 'vos' for 'you' instead of 'tú.' Don't worry; locals are patient with attempts.

Tigre Delta (1h by train) for boat rides through wetland canals. Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay (1h by ferry) for a UNESCO old town and lunch. Estancias outside the city for gaucho days. San Antonio de Areco for traditional cowboy country (2h).

Yes — porteños love kids and bring them everywhere. Parks (Bosques de Palermo) are generous. The Japanese Garden and Planetarium are kid hits. Late dinners are a challenge — eat at 7 (early for locals) or do the proper porteño 10 PM with napping.

Yes — friendly people, late-running cafés, walkable Palermo. The milonga scene is famously welcoming to beginners. Spanish helps but isn't strictly required. Best base is Palermo Soho.

Mendoza if you're a wine person — 1h 30m flight, 3 nights minimum, world-class Malbec terroir at Bodega Catena Zapata, Achaval-Ferrer, etc. Iguazú if you want one of the world's great waterfalls — 1h 45m flight, 2 nights minimum. Both are easy add-ons; few people do both on a first trip.

10% in restaurants (it's often not on the bill). Small change for porters and bag handlers. Tipping taxi drivers is optional — round up. Tour guides and drivers expect ~10%. Tip in pesos cash, not USD.